It’s been a dreary, muddy several weeks here in New England as Spring starts to take hold. Sunday was forecasted to be Sunny and warm, so I decided to drive up to Portland, Maine since I hadn’t been there yet. As you cross the Piscataqua River Bridge from New Hampshire, a sign joyfully proclaims “Welcome to Maine. Vacationland” Another just past the bridge says “Maine, The Way Life Should Be”.
I have a theory that you can tell a lot about a state’s people by their Welcome centers. Well, nothing against New Hampshire, but you should probably just hold it until you get into Maine. I think Maine’s Rest Stops are second only to Vermont’s in both beauty and availability of information. If you are into brochures, you are in for a treat. And the people that work there are very nice and helpful.
Your GPS is going to tell you to stay on 95 almost all the way into Portland. Trust me on this and piss that lady in your phone off by hitting Route 1 instead. You don’t have to follow it all the way up, but at least take it through Ogunquit and Wells. What are you into, Antiques? Holy cow, you have a ton of options. Miniature Golf? Well, you are in for a treat. Candy Stores? Beaches? Bakeries? All these and more are available in plenty. You cannot possibly stop at all of them and hope to ever actually make it to Portland, but you should at least stop at a couple. Expect to see houses, barns and churches from the last 300 years along the way. I’ll be honest, the drive up was probably the best part of this short trip for me. So, don’t rush it too much…enjoy the journey.
I stopped at Bread and Roses Bakery and Harbor Candy shop in Ogunquit. Both are spectacular and worth checking out! Southern Maine knows what’s up when it comes to sweets! And since you are stopping anyway, wander over to Ogunquit Beach while you are at it. It’s a beautiful spot. Say hello to the Mermaid weather vane and go for a nice stroll. Then mosey up Route 1, just keep the sea to your right shoulder. You’ll probably see some awesome Totem poles and maybe catch a glimpse of a tiny waterfall between buildings. The whole area from York to Kennebunk is beautiful. There are some great restaurants including The Maine Diner, which is right by Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge in Wells. The Wildlife Refuge is an awesome and educational stop. I’ve been there before and highly recommend it.
I thought about going down Hwy 9 to further follow the coast, but decided to pop back over to the Turnpike lest I not actually make it to Portland. So, fast forward to downtown and Old Port, which was the primary part of Portland that I actually wanted to wander through. I lucked out and parking was free on Sunday so that was a nice perk. I found a spot a couple blocks away in metered parking.
I’m going to tell you that I started at the pub, but I’m going to save that part for last because it ended up unexpectedly being the highlight of my day. So, let’s skip to the part where I tell you that Portland is full of lovely red brick buildings from the 1800s and cobblestone streets. I learned that much of the city was destroyed by fire in 1866, which is why a lot of the buildings are Victorian even though the town itself was settled in the 1630s. Make sure you walk down one or two of the wharfs and take a gander at the boats. The stroll through the area is lovely. There is a nice park where the beautiful weather had many people just hanging out on benches in the sun.
The shopping in this area is fantastic. There are several kitschy small businesses to check out like Shipwreck & Cargo (which has tons of touristy pirate themed stuff in addition to some actual really cool historic sailing finds) along with some fancy places like Portland Dry Goods. My favorite was the Maine Potters Market which held the works of several potters in the area. My wallet was sorely tempted by some gorgeous pottery there. I decided not to purchase anything just because I’m currently packing up to move, but I suspect I will not be so strong if I visit again. There are several cool looking coffee shops, restaurants and spectacular gelato.
A gem of Portland is the Eastern Promenade. This park spans the point of the peninsula on which Portland is situated. You can walk along the rocky beach, collect seashells, play on the playground, picnic at tables and benches scattered around the extensive park or just lie in the sun on the grassy hill. It was the first warm sunny weekend of the Spring in Maine, so there was a lot of sunning on the hill happening that day! There are also a few plaques with info about the old earthen fort that was on the hill. Oh, and did I mention the cannons? Because…cannons! You may also spot The Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Company & Museum. They do a historic train tour of the area that looks super fun.
As I was walking through a gazebo on the hill I noticed a package lying there and walked over to read the note attached. It was a brand new sleeping bag left with a note for anyone who might be living in the cold. “I am not lost. If you need me, please take me.” I love this. People doing concrete things to help strangers who might need it. Proof of good people in the world.
OK, now back to the pub. Remember what I said once before about being open to experiences that don’t end up how you expected? The first thing I saw when I was walking toward Old Port was the brightly painted Brian Boru Pub. Now, at this point I could use a restroom so I figured I would stop in to take care of that and maybe have a Sunday morning pint. I figured I would go on my way, find a lobster roll for lunch and wander the warf area. Well, I opened the door and was delighted to hear a jig being played by a live band right in front of me. Brunch was being served and I found myself unable to turn down cheap but delicious mimosas and a fresh Pollock sandwich. And for that hour and a half or so, this pub in Maine felt like home. My plans would wait. Right now perfection was sitting on this wooden bench, eating delicious food, drinking the best mimosa I’ve had in ages and listening to the 3 person Quebecois band, T-Acadie harmonize. An elderly gentleman in front of me proclaimed loudly on a break “I don’t understand why there aren’t hundreds of people here! You guys are the BEST!” Several of the songs they did were sung in French and just before I left, they sang a version of the Sailor’s Prayer that I had never heard before. I was enraptured. This was one of those moments of magic. In that moment, I knew these people whom I had never met and I loved them just a little. This is what I was there for…
“I will not lie me down, this rain a ragin’
I will not lie me down, in such a storm
Though this night be unblessed,
I shall not take my rest
until I reach another shore”
https://www.facebook.com/TAcadie/
https://www.facebook.com/bboru2/
https://www.facebook.com/mainepottersmarket/